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The colonel talked to Edox about making a special watch for the elite paratroopers under his command. It had to combine the no-nonsense functionality and do-it-all characteristics of a divers’ watch with the looks of an instrumental pilots’ watch. Whether the watch with its cryptic name a diver that dropped from the sky; ergo, a skydiver got out of the prototype stages to serve with the military is not fully clear. But then again, legends never really are.
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You will find C?tes de Genève on the main plate, perlage underneath the micro-rotor, and decoration in positive relief on the rotor itself. Some beautiful beveled angles are on display in this movement. It is certainly a joy to behold. The movement ticks at 21,600vph and provides 60 hours of power reserve.
This watch is less of a conventionally vintage style piece and is more a modern timepiece which is inspired replica watches by the vintage look. Overall it is a minimalistic watch with a jet black stainless steel bracelet and case, the main design feature of the watch being the coach on the centre of the dial which is in a warm gold. It is an elegant and sophisticated and would be a great addition to vintage work attire.
Up to eight times harder than stainless steel? Viton gaskets? Super-LumiNova? 40.5mm across, 11.5mm thick, 46mm lug-to-lug delivered on leather-lined, hard-wearing canvas straps? Available on Kickstarter (until Friday, September 4, 2020, 4:57 AM CEST) from 399 Singaporean Dollars (that’s about 247 at the time of writing)? Color me interested. I’m a sucker for a strong case shape around which I believe a brand can build a collection. As such, I think there is quite a bit to come from Reise. And with such a reasonable buy-in price, I’m happy to go along for the journey”. Stretch goals include an entirely luminous arctic white” dial, and the option of a bracelet. Check out the Kickstarter campaign here.
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Two other watches that practically scream and beg for a solar-powered movement, if you ask me, are the Omega Speedmaster Skywalker X-33 and Spacemaster Z-33 both 5,300 watches in oversized titanium cases. The 45mm Skywalker X-33 uses caliber 5619, a thermo?compensated, multi?functional quartz movement with special functions developed, tested, and qualified by the European Space Agency (ESA). It powers the analog hands and the LCD that allows you to keep track of three different timezones, as well as the chronograph, timer, MET (Mission Elapsed Time), PET (Phase Elapsed Time), three alarms, and perpetual calendar functions. The downside of all of these functions, however, is a somewhat disappointing two years of battery life.
Those of you familiar with earlier versions of the Lange 1 Time Zone will remember the rotating arrow hands featured on both time discs. The day/night indicator in the second time zone was actually placed outside of the disc, an appendage of sorts. For 2020, the arrows have been substituted for an even cleaner and more legible solution: the day/night indicators are now ring-shaped and have been positioned on the central axis of both time circles.
And yes, you read it correct, I typed Meissen Italia”. Usually when we think of Meissen, we think Germany. Well, Meissen Group started an Italian subsidiary for developing its Meissen Joaillerie portfolio, and also wanted to secure a connection with a watch brand in the top segment. And Laurent Ferrier is as top segment” as it gets!
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This piece features the immediately recognizable three gold bridges that appear in Girard-Perregaux's tourbillon watches. However, this time they're visible through the back of the case rather than on the dial side. This is in line with the design of the classic version of the original pocket watch movement, invented by Constant Girard in 1867 and patented in the US in 1884.
Quick facts: 44 mm bronze case - water resistant to 200m - automatic movement calibre Eterna 3902A with hours, minutes and seconds. Leather strap with pin buckle - EUR 2,690 - limited edition of 300 pieces. For more information, visit? www.eterna.com
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